The first Berlin Fashion Week of the year 2017 is over. You saw a lot of new, a lot of the same, met new designers and new cooperations. A summary of upcoming trends for autumn/winter 2017-18.
Women's suits are first. Triplets are almost everywhere and were shown in every way at the Berlin Fashion Week. All in black, with a wide leg, as a tuxedo style, colorful patterned, high waisted or body-shifted from shoulder to toe. Odeeh, Dawid Tomaszewski x Aryton, Marina Hoermanseder and William Fan were all focused on the highly feminine interpretation of the tailoring. Everyone interprets it in his own way. A strong sign of our present time and deliberate reflection, when the women had to fight for their rights and Yves Saint Laurent revolutionized a movement with his ladies' tuxedo in the late 60s - we are back on the move.
A color combination was also untypical for winter season: Pink and Red / Bordeaux. A combination that used to be frowned upon and is now a source of enthusiasm. Once again, the theme of femininity is clear to see, since the pink is a sign for the feminine gender and at the same time a very positive color. The color was shown quite often as a metallic shining element and was especially represented by Malaika Raiss, but also at William Fan and Marina Hoermanseder.
A direct link to the next trend, which has been seen in collections all over the world: shine & metallic. In almost every collection, it also had to shimmer and radiate, whether it was pants, skirts, jackets or dresses, metallic threads, sequins or coated materials and silk. We say the late 80s/early 90s are still in the minds, the party never stops. Seen at Perret Schad, Michael Sontag, Lena Hoschek, Odeeh and many more. Marc Cain presented almost the whole collection to the the topic of "party glam vs. sportiness".
A short time we had a small break, now we are again at a favorite part of fashion, the Layering. One likes to wear trousers under skirts and dresses, but also sweaters, Tshirts or shirts under camisoles and dresses. Clothes are almost never seen by its own on the catwalks. Wrap skirts are pulled over coats, jackets under dresses. Everything you would rather wear above now happens under the clothes. The naked leg seems to be very unpopular, which is not bad for the winter season. Because a pants under a suitable skirt, looks very neat and keeps also warm, we already know from the 90s. Seen at Schumacher, Odeeh, Marina Hoermanseder and many more.
The last very striking trend for the winter of 2017-18 is also a popular 90s movement: Neo Romantic. Surprisingly, the German designers are less minimalistic, straightforward and functional this year. You can see lots of frills, lots of playful elements, draping, black long lace dresses layered, but also lots of velvet, as well as burned velvet. Floral patterns decorate as an all-over print on jackets and coats. It is a mixture of romantic and strong femininity. Seen at Laurèl, Antonia Goy, Odeeh and Philomena Zanetti.
Furthermore, there are still some trend movements, which were taken up by one designer. Marina Hoermanseder was particularly concerned with the "fetish" idea. Lacquer and bondage elements, Cornrows on the models' heads and "gangster's paradise" sounds are devoted on the entire collection to create one look. Others gave greater importance to their recollection. Ivanman showed perfectly cut men's suits decorated with cut marks. A tribute to the beginnings of a designer and an outcry against growing up.
All in all, recycling trends is typical for the fashion industry, every trend appears again. The trends for fall/winter 2017-18 certainly are among the elements of the women's movement and the return of the late 80s, early 90s party Glam Revolution a la Madonna. We like to remember and look for topics that have given us a sense of support when social and political movements are happening. We are looking forward to a wild self-conscious, upcoming winter.