Berlin Contemporary Competition: These 5 new fashion labels are among the winners

Buzigahill

Kampala-based label Buzigahill is far more than just a fashion brand – it’s a radical response to the global garment industry's most pressing contradictions. Founded in 2022 by designer Bobby Kolade, the label confronts the harsh realities of secondhand clothing imports and their devastating impact on local textile industries across the Global South.

What happens to the mountains of unwanted and excess clothing from Europe, North America, and Asia once they reach places like Uganda? Buzigahill answers that question not with commentary, but with action and creation. Turning cast-off garments into meticulously crafted fashion statements, the brand subverts the narrative – reclaiming textile waste and transforming it into garments that challenge consumption culture head-on.

Under the provocative, ongoing collection title “Return to Sender,” Kolade flips the script entirely. He repurposes discarded fabric and textile debris into contemporary pieces that straddle the line between art and activism, redirecting the narrative – and the waste – back to its origin. Sustainability, upcycling, circularity, and inclusion aren’t trends here; they are embedded in the very DNA of the label.

Born in Sudan to Nigerian-German parents and raised between Kampala and Lagos, Bobby Kolade brings a rich tapestry of cultural perspectives to his design philosophy. A graduate of Berlin-Weissensee School of Art, Kolade is no stranger to Germany’s fashion scene. He launched his eponymous label in 2015, debuting at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, and honed his craft at prestigious houses such as Maison Margiela and Balenciaga before charting his own course.

David Koma

Luxurious ready-to-wear in the shape of dramatic statement pieces define the essence of David Koma’s namesake London-based label, founded in 2009 by the Georgian designer. Renowned for his body-contouring silhouettes – especially in his iconic dresses – Koma masterfully fuses sculptural elegance with an unapologetically sensual edge. Transparent fabrics, daring proportions, and intricate detailing shape collections that captivate both runways and red carpets, dressing global icons from Beyoncé to Lady Gaga.

In June 2024, the brand steps into new territory, unveiling its first-ever menswear collection. Here, Koma explores the evolving identities of men’s fashion, crafting a wardrobe that balances power with poise. The result is a dynamic interplay of masculine codes, reimagined through refined tailoring and hints of the unexpected.

Committed to sustainability, high ethical standards, and social responsibility, the label champions transparency at every step of the production process – from avoiding overproduction to sourcing materials responsibly. David Koma has pledged to use only recycled and certified raw materials by 2030. The brand has been investing in the future of fashion by supporting craftsmanship through student mentorships and community-based initiatives.

Hailing from Tbilisi, Georgia, Koma began his artistic journey at just 15, studying fine arts in St. Petersburg before moving to London to attend the prestigious Central Saint Martins College. He launched his label the same year he graduated, and quickly became a mainstay at London Fashion Week. Now, David Koma debuts his latest menswear collection on the Berlin Fashion Week stage, bringing his signature mix of strength, sensuality, and sophistication to a bold new audience.

Gerrit Jacob

Celebrated for his vivid, airbrushed statement pieces – coveted by style icons such as A$AP Rocky, Dua Lipa, Burna Boy and Lil Nas X – German designer Gerrit Jacob masterfully fuses unabashed kitsch with exquisite craftsmanship in his collections. Reimagining workwear and sportswear staples through his distinctive lens, Jacob transforms oversized denim or leather pieces, sweatpants, and biker jackets into subversive yet sophisticated silhouettes. Each piece is a sartorial canvas, infused with poignant childhood memories and nods to rebellious youth subcultures, resulting in collections that are instantly recognisable and unmistakably stamped with the Gerrit Jacob signature.

Jacob takes a considered approach to material selection, aligning his creative process with the ethos of slow fashion. His designs emphasise durability, elevation, and timeless appeal – qualities further enhanced by his commitment to repurposed fabrics and a growing shift toward environmentally conscious production. Central to his vision are themes of representation, unisex tailoring, and a bold interrogation of traditional fashion norms.

Born in Hamburg, Jacob is a graduate of the illustrious Central Saint Martins. His pedigree includes stints at fashion houses such as Balenciaga, Martine Rose, and Gucci. In 2022 he launched his eponymous label in Berlin. Since then, Jacob has garnered international acclaim, not only for his singular aesthetic but also for high-profile collaborations with the likes of Adidas and Anonymous Club.

Ioannes

Founded in Paris in 2019 by German-born designer Johannes Boehl-Cronau, Ioannes has swiftly become a name whispered in fashion’s inner circles – and shouted on the global stage, thanks to celebrity devotees like Rihanna, Rosalía, and Kylie Jenner. Now headquartered in Berlin, Boehl-Cronau and his team craft their quietly bold vision from a studio nestled in the city’s creative heart.

The aesthetic of Ioannes is a study in contrasts: effortless modern elegance tempered by a streak of playful defiance. Rooted in minimalism yet tinged with a touch of extravagance, the brand straddles the line between cool restraint and youthful whimsy. Signature elements include bold prints, vibrant color palettes, and visible seams that lend a raw yet refined edge to the label’s silhouettes.

At its core, Ioannes celebrates femininity in all its complexity – fluid, confident, and unapologetically individual. A sense of lightness and optimism flows through each collection, further underscored by the label’s conscious approach to production. Many pieces are crafted from deadstock fabrics, surplus textiles, and recycled nylon sourced from ocean waste, making sustainability not just a message, but a material reality.

Born in Frankenberg, Germany, Johannes Boehl-Cronau honed his craft at London’s Central Saint Martins, earning his Master’s degree in Womenswear Design in 2017. He then relocated to Paris, where he taught at the Paris College of Art and quickly gained industry acclaim following an exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo. The buzz led to the launch of his debut collection, which was promptly picked up by Net-a-Porter. With the onset of the pandemic, Boehl-Cronau returned to Germany – bringing his vision home and making Berlin the new backdrop for Ioannes’ rising global narrative.

Orange Culture

Another brand making its Berlin Fashion Week debut, Orange Culture is the Lagos-based label by visionary designer Adebayo Oke-Lawal – an outspoken force redefining fashion through the lens of identity, activism, and African artistry. Founded in 2010/2011, the brand fuses gender-fluid silhouettes with sustainably crafted collections, drawing inspiration from traditional Nigerian textiles reinterpreted through a distinctly contemporary, streetwear-informed aesthetic.

But for Oke-Lawal, Orange Culture is more than fashion – it’s a movement. At the heart of the brand lies a commitment to inclusion and social consciousness. Every garment challenges restrictive norms, particularly those surrounding masculinity in African society. With bold colourways and emotionally charged narratives, Oke-Lawal deconstructs the unspoken codes of men’s fashion and reclaims the expressive power .

A self-taught designer who began sketching collections at age ten, Adebayo Oke-Lawal has built a global reputation for fearless storytelling. In 2014, he was a finalist for the prestigious LVMH Prize for Young Designers. His work has been showcased at Lagos, London, and New York Fashion Week, and Orange Culture was the first African label ever nominated for the Woolmark Prize – as well as the first Nigerian brand to be stocked at London’s Selfridges. In 2022, Oke-Lawal was named as part of the BOF 500 list. His designs have been embraced by the likes of Lupita Nyong’o, Dua Lipa, Kelly Rowland, and many more.