ABOUT THE LABEL
Launched in 2021, the brand MARKE, acronymic for designer Mario Keine, is driven by the mindset to understand the human spirit and personality as a free, dynamic construct. MARKE creates collections which give the character room to simultaneously explore differing shapes of aesthetic. A rich canon of inspiration, influences of historic époques and future decades creates a world that puts product into new context by playing with and balancing out conventional and alternative approaches. Hybridity, fluidity, and eclecticism are paramount roles. Historic and newly developed manufacturing techniques balance the boarders of production of apparel, jewelry, and accessories.
ABOUT THE SHOW
Mario Keine, founder and designer of MARKE, presented his collection titled "Allezeit bei mir" at Pressecafé in the NEWEST Showspace. The inspiration behind it was the notion that every moment is like a little talisman, forming a collection of silent memories over time. After closely examining his own handwriting last season, Keine now continues the cycle of reflection by paying homage to the people and moments that have influenced him through a visual tribute.
Which materials, colors, and silhouettes are prominent in MARKE this season and why?
As always, the materials in the collection are 100% circular in origin, sourced entirely from the overstock and deadstock of Italian manufacturers. The outerwear features heavy wool/cashmere blends, but this time with lighter volumes. For the first time, the collection includes classic tailoring, such as a blazer in an hourglass silhouette, inspired by the classic couture volumes of the 1950s. However, this interplay is interrupted by the use of shades of blue and elements from workwear confections. Since this collection is the final part of a three-part cycle, the color scheme remains consistent with previous seasons, in navy, white, and blush, complemented by nuances of frosted gray and taupe, and featuring hand-painted prints for the first time.
What is particularly significant about "Allezeit bei mir"?
The historical references that I delved into extensively during my research phase are now more prominently visualized. While they were somewhat subtle in the previous season, this time they are highlighted visually. I employ stronger visual contrasts to enhance the eclectic impression of my collection. Additionally, the collection consciously plays with feminine influences, underscoring the unisex nature of the styles.
What are your top three favorite looks?
One of my favorites is the opening look, which, despite its purism in silhouette and material, exudes an opulence inspired by baptismal gowns. The other two looks include an outfit consisting of a wool poncho and ruffle accessories, and a bomber jacket paired with painted trousers in ice gray. These two silhouettes showcase typical MARKE references from fashion history, merging past and present into a future-oriented blend.
A few thoughts on the show location, music selection, and models. What was important to you here?
Thanks to the NEWEST format, I was able to utilize the fabulous location of the Press Café, currently undergoing a transitional phase. I appreciate this phase of transforming a historically significant building into a contemporary interpretation. The raw structure provided the perfect backdrop for the concept. The show was underscored by the works of Dortmund-based artist Alesha Klein, who created a backdrop of sculptures resembling monuments, symbolizing the silent observers of people from various epochs of our lives. The acoustic accompaniment was once again provided by Robert Eisinger, as in the previous season. This music tied together everything that embodies the ethos of MARKE: reduction, construction, eclectic references, and modernization of history.
What is your personal highlight of this season?
My personal highlight of the season has been experiencing the cooperative atmosphere within the next generation of German fashion. Throughout the past year and especially this season, I have witnessed how cooperation has become the norm. Despite international competition, there is a sense that significant issues such as inclusion and sustainability can only be addressed through collective efforts, mutual support, and solidarity.
All images, brand descriptions and further information are available at the official Berlin Fashion Week MEDIA HUB.