Interview
"The Berlin Style is Fun"
Over recent seasons, the Berlin Fashion Week has established itself as a crucial platform and stage for designers and labels. A central figure in this transformation is Herbert Hofmann, currently one of the five jury members of the Berlin Contemporary competition and a key figure in the German fashion industry for years. We asked the VP Creative & Buying at Highsnobiety and former buyer at Voo Store about the Berlin style, his personal highlights and insights on brands.
What makes Berlin particularly attractive as a fashion city from a buyer's perspective?
"As a buyer, you can dare to purchase new brands, products, and styles. Berlin's stores are known for their individuality, and both tourists and locals are curious."
How would you characterize the 'Berlin Style'? Are there specific elements or influences that shape this style?
"The Berlin style is fun because it's undefinable. There’s a lot of secondhand and vintage, which makes the outfits very individual. In Berlin, you rarely see complete brand looks – probably because there isn’t the same purchasing power as in other metropolises. People are forced to be more creative."
What current developments and trends in the Berlin fashion scene do you find particularly exciting?
"I’m seeing more and more vintage and secondhand outfits, which pleases me. Berlin is already known for vintage looks, but more and more are opting for the secondhand market – perhaps for financial reasons, but I also hope for sustainability reasons."
Where in Berlin do you feel most inspired to discover new trends?
"Good question! Generally, I often take a second look when I'm not in the most popular districts. What's currently trendy can be seen in Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg, but the inspiration for something new mostly comes from elsewhere."
When did you realize that you had a special knack for fashion, and how has it developed?
"My mother always placed a lot of value on looking well-groomed, despite having very little money, and I think I picked that up. But I also had a certain interest in colors, materials, and products within me. Apparently, as a preschooler, I criticized her nail polish color – I'm not proud of that and I don’t do it anymore. I love it when people wear whatever they like. But I've trained my eye to see whether a product or design makes sense or is a 'hollow' product made just to fill a product category or boost sales."
Why did you choose the location of the physical Highsnobiety store under the Linden trees? Why Berlin?
"Berlin is our home (alongside our second-largest office in New York) and we’ve wanted to open a shop in a special location for a long time. When the space under the Linden trees and in the same block as Chateau Royal became available, we fell in love with the old high walls. Berlin has become increasingly known as a shopping destination and we think we can contribute something more with our mix of products, brands, and events."
What challenges do you see for young designers in Berlin and how can the city support them?
"Young designers are not having an easy time – money for fun in life isn’t readily available and investing in something new and unknown isn’t in the German DNA. Better examples can be found in Scandinavia, where fashion from own (young) companies is proudly purchased and celebrated. We as a magazine and shop can talk about the brands and give them attention, but also invest and buy the collections. Unfortunately, it’s not always easy to support the brands until they (hopefully) break through."
What do you tell international colleagues about why it's worth coming to Berlin Fashion Week?
"Berlin is unique when it comes to the creative scene. I always describe Berlin as a mix of fashion, art, music, culture, and history. All scenes are very connected and this is reflected in the way fashion is made and presented."
What does Berlin have that other (fashion) metropolises do not?
"Great freedom in terms of lifestyle and living costs. Although everything is getting more expensive, it's still cheaper to try your luck here than in other metropolises."
Which designers and labels from Germany should we keep an eye on now?
"The label Frnkow produces very fine products. From high-quality underwear to delicate shirts, there’s a lot to discover here. The brand Avenir also creates exciting designs. I still love A Kind of Guise after all these years. Ottolinger, 032c, GmbH, and Gerrit Jacob, SF1OG are also doing a great job."