HIGHLIGHTS 3/6

Richert Beil

With the "Heritage" collection, Jale Richert and Michele Beil celebrated the 10th anniversary of their label Richert Beil - fittingly with flowers, cake, and nostalgic tunes like Roy Black's "Ganz in Weiß" (All in White).

We asked the duo about their thoughts on it: "Our current collection celebrates a decade of creative work. We've revisited our signature pieces and reinterpreted the designs and patterns from our debut collection of 2015. The collection focuses on appreciating the traditional German fashion heritage and the style of our grandmothers.

We deconstructed their wardrobe into conceptual pieces, subverting familiar silhouettes and styles with unconventional materials and design techniques. It featured a mix of precise tailoring, including modest yet sophisticated ensembles and suits, alongside deconstructed twin sets, cardigans, smocks, and other typical stylistics. Sentimental accessories such as pearls, heirloom necklaces, and brooches complemented the collection. Conceptually, the grandmother’s look represented a blend of personal style, comfort, and the influences of the eras she has lived through, creating a unique and endearing fashion statement that spoke to her life journey. This is what an authentic fashion brand stands for. Additionally, we showcased our ‘Treasure Hunt’ pieces - designs that were partly or fully regenerated - incorporating recycled materials like old horse gear and saddles, vintage shapewear, and antique laces. ‘Heritage’ underscored inclusivity, diversity, and sustainability, featuring models of various ages, including elderly women, genders, body types, and ethnicities, along with innovative designs and bold silhouettes. Our presentation format aimed to inspire the fashion industry towards greater inclusivity and sustainability."

BOBKOVA

Kristiana Bobkova often finds inspiration in nature. While she was guided by the mallow last season, her current collection is a tribute to autumn: "It describes the essence of fall, the season that stands for the harvest," explains the ukrainian native and winner of Berlin Contemporary.

For the third time in a row, Ukrainian designer Kristina Bobkova is presenting her runway collection as part of Berlin Contemporary. For her Fall/Winter 2024/25 collection, her more than 30 looks once again represent the fashionable heart of the brand: Kristina Bobkova's very own idea of "casual wear" and thus designs inspired by Japanese, straight cuts and combined with often flowing, feminine elements. The Ukrainian-born designer's fashion goal: her looks should always be and remain relevant, regardless of time and place. 

Kristiana Bobkova often finds inspiration in nature. While she was guided by the mallow last season, her current collection is a tribute to autumn: "It describes the essence of fall, the season that stands for the harvest," explains the designer. 

So it was the golden shimmering wheat fields, bursting with apples, plums and pears, decorated fruit trees or vineyards and forests with bushes full of blackberries, raspberries and cranberries. "The collection speaks to maturity in all its facets: A time of ripening and completeness, a time to savor the fruits of one's labor," says the designer. 

In keeping with the inspiration and alongside beige, off-white and black tones, deep wine, blackberry, plum and bordeaux nuances dominate the collection. Combined with pumpkin, egg yolk, ochre and eggplant tones. Ukrainian artist and architect Dasha Zima designed a print especially for the F/W 24/25 season, which shows stylized harvest fields and orchards in the Ukraine and now adorns some looks. This season, all materials are either upcycled or - typical of BOBKOVA - of natural origin and range from silk, cotton and wool to cashmere.

The BOBKOVA runway show took place in the NEWEST showspace, the historic Berlin publishing house, the Pressecafé, in Mitte. The defilée was musically accompanied by tracks composed especially for the show by Ukrainian musician Anastasiia Vogan.

DENNIS CHUENE

"I express my emotions through clothing. Each of my designs is inevitably connected to me and my inner self," says Dennis Chuene. Here the Berlin Contemporary designer shares what he processes with his current collection.

Dennis Chuene was once again honored as the Berlin Contemporary winner and showcased his collection at the NEWEST Showspace, the Pressecafé. 

In 2008, the native South African founded his eponymous label. Since then, he has been designing streetwear with couture appeal in Berlin. All collections and looks of the South African-born designer, who now calls Berlin home, tell a consistently personal story: "I’m documenting emotions through apparel, craftsmanship and storytelling. Every piece of clothing is inevitably connected to me and my inner self."

Here he reveals the inner conflict he creatively processes through his current collection here.

A year ago, you presented your collection, "Dennis Who," during Berlin Fashion Week, where you embarked on a journey to find yourself. With Autumn/Winter 2024/25, you have another very personal connection. What's behind "Big Ego - Low Self Esteem"?

It is a contemplative collection that reveals the complexity of my big ego in connection with low self-esteem. The first looks each represent one facet of my psyche, the following 

stand for transformation, and the final looks are the result of my introspection.

Who inspired you fashion-wise this season?

An eclectic mix of avant-garde designers and Savile Row tailors. With the collection, I want to bring together my influences, interests, and style to create a concrete, distinctive design language. For example, I showcase figure-hugging, long coats, tailored silhouettes complemented by wide, pleated pants.

The show took place in the press café and resembled more performance art. You turned the runway show into a silent disco. Half of the audience wore headphones, and the other half did not. Why?

They all experience the same thing but with different influences. Guests without headphones hear external noises. In addition, there are comments and thoughts that could occupy us all. The other part of the audience gains access to my intimate thoughts, questions, and challenges as I take on various character traits through voice-over.