Highlights of the BFW 2 / 7

GmbH

With their GmbH collection "Resistance Through Rituals," Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik made their Berlin Contemporary debut on the terrace of Tempodrom as part of the Intervention Showcase by Reference Studio. Friends and models of the two designers showcased looks intended to symbolize strength and combat readiness. Tailored boxing-style jackets, patchwork tops, ultra-short shorts, asymmetrical dresses, and boots with extra wide shafts dominated the runway.

"Resistance Through Rituals" questions the resurgence of fascism and its societal impacts. Through its tailored and boxing-inspired designs, GmbH embodies the spirit of resistance and celebrates the heroes and heroines who dedicate their lives to the cause.

A highlight of the show was the collaboration with Axel Arigato, GmbH’s exclusive footwear partner. Together, they introduced a new sneaker collection in silver metallic, featuring elements of chainmail and armored metal. This reinterpretation of armor reflects GmbH’s ongoing exploration of resistance in their designs.

MARKE

Designer Mario Keine presented the collection of his label MARKE in collaboration with NEWEST and Museum & Location at the Kulturforum. The inspiration for "Zapfenstreich" came from the rural marksmen's festivals with which the designer grew up in the Sauerland. Uniform jackets, trousers with pennants, and sashes represent his critique of traditions and groups that continue to exclude and discriminate against people today.

What inspired you for this collection?

Growing up in Sauerland and being an active member of a music club, I experienced many shooting festivals. At these events, members of the local shooting brotherhood shoot at a wooden bird, and the victor, along with their partner, is crowned and celebrated. These festivals, which often reject innovations under the guise of tradition, sparked a reflection on the exclusivity and lack of inclusivity in traditional customs.

What is particularly significant about this collection?

A distinctive feature is the blend of traditionally masculine forms with elements borrowed from queer culture. This combination is manifested in both the silhouette and through the use of materials and colors, critically engaging with conservative fashion norms.

What materials, colors, and silhouettes are central?

The collection challenges the status quo by reinterpreting typical elements of shooting festival attire and blending them with visual aspects of marginalized groups. The use of vibrant plaids, jerseys, and mélange fabrics in shades like turquoise-pink or black-red celebrates individuality. The materials are exclusively sourced from Italian overstock and deadstock fabrics, ensuring the collection’s sustainability.

Anonymous Club by Shayne Oliver

Shayne Oliver concluded the first day of Berlin Fashion Week with his progressive "Anonymous Club Runway Show - Fantasia 2024: FREUDIAN GLITCH" at the packed Tempodrom. For the second time, the internationally acclaimed artist presented as part of the Intervention Showcase, captivating Berlin and an ultra-fashionable, young, international audience, including superstar Ye.

Oliver showcased deconstructed sportswear, jersey-inspired designs, flowing extra-wide layering silhouettes, and short egg-shaped looks with hoods and partial veiling—paired with ballerinas or boots. The arena-like staging contrasted gentle bird songs with intense, brutal sounds and, as always with Shayne Oliver, was more art performance than fashion show.

VOGUE Fashion Fund

In February, VOGUE Germany and the Fashion Council Germany launched the first FCG/VOGUE Fashion Fund in Germany. Now, during a celebratory cocktail event at the James-Simon-Galerie to kick off Berlin Fashion Week, both partners announced the seven brands that have been selected as finalists for the emerging fashion award: Kasia Kucharska, Lou de Bètoly, Lueder, Namilia, Richert Beil, SF1OG, and Sia Arnika can look forward to the prize, which includes a total of 100,000 euros in financial and material support. The award will be presented on September 23, 2024, in Berlin.