HIGHLIGHTS 4/6

Lou de Bètoly

Lou de Betoly presented the collection for her label Lou de Bètoly in the vacant premises of the former Habitat furniture store at Potsdamer Platz. Black foil formed the dystopian backdrop for the French designer's powdery lingerie-inspired looks.

At the core of the new collection are illusion and distortion, with many looks challenging reality perception. Skirts made from bras and leather coats turned into bags reinterpret classic couture and reflect the label's upcycling principle. One look creates the illusion of denim but is actually crocheted from yarn and sequins.

The collection combines vintage materials like leather and mohair with nylon textiles from deadstock and wool spun from recycled dog hair waste. Lou de Bètoly's characteristic handcrafting techniques transform these second-hand materials into tactile luxury garments with a unique twist. Fabrics work together to distort texture and shape, offering a range of silhouettes, from delicate, form-fitting lace dresses to fluffy dresses and distorted coats. 

Namilia 

"Pfoten weg!" is the name of Namilia's AW24 collection, eagerly anticipated by the colorful fan crowd of the label on Tuesday evening at the Kulturforum Gemäldegalerie. Inspired by medieval armor, military looks, and glamorous trash, Emilia Pfohl and Nan Li presented looks that, as usual, provocatively addressed the hate against queer people who bravely navigate public spaces.

Materials and aesthetics play a pivotal role this season, with an array of prints and patterns, including realtree motifs and bespoke monogram prints. Pinks and rhinestones interplay with chain mesh, stretch lycra, and vegan leather, crafting a dynamic visual narrative. Moreover, the collection introduces new silhouettes, featuring sculptural fits and couture-inspired designs that redefine the brand's aesthetic.

The show's ambiance was meticulously curated, with the illustrious Kulturforum in the Gemäldegalerie serving as the backdrop. Renowned London-based DJ and producer, SH3L, provided an original soundtrack, enhancing the sensory experience. The casting reflected Namilia's well-known commitment to diversity, presenting a refreshing and alternative vision of fashion.

For Namilia, this season's highlight lies in collaboration, as they reunite with creatives who inspire their vision of freedom. Ultimately, the brand aims to imbue wearers with confidence, power, and undeniable allure, epitomizing the essence of liberation through fashion.

"Pfoten Weg!" encourages individuals to embrace their truth unapologetically, reclaiming agency over their bodies and identities.

PLNGNS

This season, the collection called "Ain't it different?", by Mitya Hontarenko for PLNGNS once again exemplifies how sustainability, craftsmanship, and zeitgeist come together. The Ukrainian designer presented looks crafted exclusively from upcycled and recycled materials, primarily sneakers.

It is the second season for PLNGNS (Palingenesy)at the Berlin Fashion Week and as part of Berlin Contemporary. Founded by Mitya Hontarenko in 2021, the label has already gained attention for its artistically upcycled sneaker creations. This time around, the Ukrainian newcomer label is unveiling its first-ever complete Ready-to-wear collection during the BFW. It not only showcases the ingenious creativity of Mitya Hontarenko but also serves as a prime example of how sustainability, exceptional craftsmanship, and contemporary spirit can seamlessly blend together. Crafted exclusively from upcycled materials, the Runway Show also illustrates various upcycling techniques and their integration into each collection.

PLNGNS' Runway Show took place at the NEWEST-Showspace, within the Pressecafé. Alongside a specially composed soundtrack, a blend of electronic beats and traditional Ukrainian music, the designer consciously opted for non-professional models. The reason being: to provide everyone, not just models, with the opportunity to be part of the PLNGNS runway experience.

Mitya Hontarenko shares the backstory of the collection in this interview:

PLNGNS is making waves right now, and your unique approach to sustainability through upcycled materials is turning heads. What's the core message you aim to convey through your fashion?

I'm here to showcase my perspective and challenge the established norms of the fashion game. I want to voice my disagreement, especially concerning the pitfalls of fast fashion and the lack of genuinely sustainable practices in major fashion corporations. On the flip side, we're not just talking about the problem; we're actively solving it by presenting alternatives. We transform garment leftovers and waste into wearable art, challenging the conventional narrative.

Your ready-to-wear collection is boldly titled "Ain't it different?". What´´ the message? 

Primarily, it's a call to change the way big fashion companies handle their waste "management." We want to spotlight that there are alternative approaches. Our main concept is to reveal a more intricate, non-standard method of creating captivating pieces, playing with materials in innovative ways. The collection reflects our evolution over the past few years, experimenting with diverse materials and manufacturing techniques. It's a comprehensive showcase of time and experimentation all in one place.

PLNGNS-DNA incorporates cutting-edge upcycled garments in various facets. Which materials take the spotlight for Fall/Winter 2024/25? 

We're working with a diverse range of materials, focusing on three main lines for this collection:

• 1. Recycling materials crafted from used sneaker uppers and details.
• 2. Restoke hand-painted nylon.
• 3. Recycled materials derived from used compression hand-painted shirts.

Any standout favorites in the collection?

It's tough to pick a favorite because each piece is a result of a constant search for balance in designing with different recycled materials. They're all special to me, especially those where we successfully blend numerous shoe details.

What specials need to be mentioned this season? 

"Exactly. We collaborated with independent designers. For accessories like headwear and bags, we partnered with Oleksandra Dzhula and Vladimir Ilcenko, for instance. With our longstanding partner, Vibram Connection Lab, we achieved a highly innovative recycled shoe sole. And let's not forget our charity project: In collaboration with the Ukrainian brand Wild Heart, founded by anonymous young designers, we created t-shirts, which we sold directly after the show. All proceeds support those whose homes were occupied by Russian armies, forcing them to leave their homeland. It's our small way of making a big impact."

Looking at the season overall, what's your personal highlight?

I'm thrilled to see more creative enthusiasts gaining recognition from major corporations. It signals that not all is lost in this "fast fashion" century.

Glück 

The GLÜCK collection "Surrealistic Dreamscape," according to Egor Bashtovenko, appeals to the depths of the subconscious. The Ukrainian designer drew his inspiration from music, particularly pieces by Sven Väth, for this season.

What inspired you for Surrealistic Dreamscape?

My inspiration for this collection primarily comes from music, which always has a profound impact on my creative process. Specifically, for this collection, I was deeply inspired by Sven Väth and his tracks 'The Harlequin' and 'Accident in Paradise.' Listening to his music, I find myself immersed in an unreal state where I can vividly see the images I want to bring to life on the stage.

Which materials, colors, silhouettes are standing out this season?

Our collection incorporates unexpected materials and details, with a mix of sequins, beads, handwork, and complex tailoring. We're emphasizing sustainable fashion with innovative choices like mushroom textile and printed animal patterns. The color palette reflects the elements - blue, white, brown-green, and red - and the silhouettes celebrate the unique curves of the body.

Can you give us a few thoughts about the show location nhow hotel, the music, and the selection of models?

The show was set in a hotel (nhow), enhancing the surreal atmosphere that blurs the lines between reality and the dream world. Collaborating with a sound producer, we've curated music to encapsulate the sensation of entering a dream state, aligning with our visual spectacle. Our diverse selection of models reflects our belief in inclusive beauty, adding to the richness of the show.

What do you want to express with your fashion?

With my fashion, I want to create interactive shows akin to theater, where clothes become characters, and models bring them to life. Fashion, for me, is about empowering individuals to express their uniqueness and tell their own stories through clothing.