HIGHLIGHTS 1/6

William Fan

As with every season, the show by William Fan in February was eagerly anticipated. The repeat winner of the Berlin Contemporary Award had already transformed the atrium of the Walter Gropius Building into a spectacular runway setting for Spring/Summer 2024. Now, he surprises again with an equally impressive show location: Just one day before his runway presentation, he revealed that he would showcase his Ready-to-wear in the warming hall of the Olympic Stadium. A location that thematically perfectly underscores the main theme of his collection. The designer shares his thoughts for this season, his favorite materials, and where he prefers to cast models for his runway.

"I am always in search of the greatest possible contrasts between the individual collection themes to continuously evolve our core silhouettes. Additionally, my collections always build upon each other. With the last collection, CEREMONY, we celebrated the coming together at social events and cross-culturally analyzed various dress codes. The new collection is titled OFF DUTY. As the name suggests, it moves beyond any clothing norms. Leisure takes center stage, allowing the experience of one's identity without the constraints of everyday role models in a liberated state. The styling creates a balance between emphasizing personality and preserving anonymity.

The entire collection strives for simplicity, with fabrics being suitcase-friendly, and the styling deliberately reduced, in line with the OFF DUTY concept. The structured cotton is particularly outstanding, found in many familiar and new silhouettes. The complete looks made from this structured cotton are my personal favorites, ideal for a day on vacation and adaptable for various occasions.

Washed, dessert-evoking colors give the wide-cut silhouettes a typical leisure look, complemented by the introduction of our new sunglasses collection this season. To reflect the diversity of Berlin, we have once again cast many models directly from the city streets."

MARKE
 

Mario Keine, founder and designer of MARKE, presented his collection titled "Allezeit bei mir" at Pressecafé in the NEWEST Showspace. The inspiration behind it was the notion that every moment is like a little talisman, forming a collection of silent memories over time. After closely examining his own handwriting last season, Keine now continues the cycle of reflection by paying homage to the people and moments that have influenced him through a visual tribute.

Which materials, colors, and silhouettes are prominent in MARKE this season and why?

As always, the materials in the collection are 100% circular in origin, sourced entirely from the overstock and deadstock of Italian manufacturers. The outerwear features heavy wool/cashmere blends, but this time with lighter volumes. For the first time, the collection includes classic tailoring, such as a blazer in an hourglass silhouette, inspired by the classic couture volumes of the 1950s. However, this interplay is interrupted by the use of shades of blue and elements from workwear confections. Since this collection is the final part of a three-part cycle, the color scheme remains consistent with previous seasons, in navy, white, and blush, complemented by nuances of frosted gray and taupe, and featuring hand-painted prints for the first time.

What is particularly significant about "Allezeit bei mir"?

The historical references that I delved into extensively during my research phase are now more prominently visualized. While they were somewhat subtle in the previous season, this time they are highlighted visually. I employ stronger visual contrasts to enhance the eclectic impression of my collection. Additionally, the collection consciously plays with feminine influences, underscoring the unisex nature of the styles.

What are your top three favorite looks?

One of my favorites is the opening look, which, despite its purism in silhouette and material, exudes an opulence inspired by baptismal gowns. The other two looks include an outfit consisting of a wool poncho and ruffle accessories, and a bomber jacket paired with painted trousers in ice gray. These two silhouettes showcase typical MARKE references from fashion history, merging past and present into a future-oriented blend.

A few thoughts on the show location, music selection, and models. What was important to you here?

Thanks to the NEWEST format, I was able to utilize the fabulous location of the Press Café, currently undergoing a transitional phase. I appreciate this phase of transforming a historically significant building into a contemporary interpretation. The raw structure provided the perfect backdrop for the concept. The show was underscored by the works of Dortmund-based artist Alesha Klein, who created a backdrop of sculptures resembling monuments, symbolizing the silent observers of people from various epochs of our lives. The acoustic accompaniment was once again provided by Robert Eisinger, as in the previous season. This music tied together everything that embodies the ethos of MARKE: reduction, construction, eclectic references, and modernization of history.

What is your personal highlight of this season?

My personal highlight of the season has been experiencing the cooperative atmosphere within the next generation of German fashion. Throughout the past year and especially this season, I have witnessed how cooperation has become the norm. Despite international competition, there is a sense that significant issues such as inclusion and sustainability can only be addressed through collective efforts, mutual support, and solidarity.

BACK2BACK

Yolanda Zobel and Marcelo Alcaide presented their collection for their label back2back also as part of the new showcase format Intervention. The name back2back reflects the collaboration between the founders, who met during their time at Courrèges. Both aim for continuous experimentation to be seen as a symbol of freedom and liberation. The designs of the current collection are characterized by unusual shapes that are not constrained by fixed rules.

The current collection features urban, workwear-inspired looks in black and white. back2back deconstructs traditional elements of men's clothing and reassembles them in a chaotic manner. This utilitarian and almost uniform-like approach gives the garments a unique touch. In particular, the exploration of traditional men's clothing elements such as trench coats, bomber jackets, overalls, suits, pants, and sweaters offers a new perspective on fashion.

Olivia Ballard

Olivia Ballard's highly sensitive and intimate exploration of the body and identity through fabrics, drapery, and manipulations has already garnered attention during the past Berlin Fashion Weeks. As a winner of Berlin Contemporary and with Fall/Winter 2024/25, the native New Yorker once again impressed, taking her guests on her unique fashion narrative.

“Le Lit”, which translates to “The Bed”, is the newest collection from OLIVIA BALLARD STUDIO called. It explores the allure of the bed and revolves around themes such as longing, sensuality, and solitude. Building on her Fall/Winter 2023 Ready-to-wear collection titled “At Dusk”, which described the transition from light to dark and into comforting garments, “Le Lit” presents the next phase: when we settle down and drift into a lucid dream in the safe environment of our bed.

“The bed is at the forefront, both as a formal element and a thematic thread. Historically, the bed has been a place of intimacy and vulnerability, which we use as a starting point to create a sacred stage where diverse identities are celebrated. At the same time, we blur the boundary between the private and public space,” explains Olivia Ballard.

The initial looks are explicitly inspired by the bed. For example, the designer showcased duvet-like jackets in sculptural forms. Tops are adorned with details resembling mattress padding, and dresses are draped to resemble crumpled bed sheets. Layered cashmere and silk effortlessly blur the line between casual and couture. 

Suddenly, the collection takes a completely different direction, and the lucid dream begins: The focus now shifts to designs that are recycled, reworked, or intricately knotted. All looks now exude not only a certain weightiness and grace but also convey a profound sense of freedom and unapologetic sensuality. Key accessories of the collection: cushions worn in front of the body.

To minimalist live music, Olivia Ballard presented her ready-to-wear collection at the NEWEST Showspace, located in the press café.

Gerrit Jacob

Gerrit Jacob not only became the first designer within the new showcase format Intervention but also inaugurated the Berlin Fashion Week with his presentation. The event, conceived by the Berlin and Milan-based communication agency Reference Studios under the direction of Mumi Haiati, aims to seamlessly integrate national and international designers into the official calendar of BFW, thereby ushering in a new era of collaborative creativity.

Jacob primarily showcased streetwear-inspired complete looks featuring neon-colored airbrushed cat-techno prints. At the heart of his fashion lies the unique fusion of craftsmanship and innovation. Themes such as identity and self-realization play a significant role in his designs. Through his creations, Gerrit Jacob invites wearers to discover themselves, celebrate their individuality, embrace their unique stories, and forge connections with the world around them.

With his debut at Intervention, Gerrit Jacob ushered in a new chapter in fashion. His innovative spirit and commitment to creativity promise to shape the future of design, inspiring a new generation of creators to challenge norms and redefine the boundaries of sartorial expression.

DER BERLINER SALON

Unique and excellent craftsmanship from Germany was once again the focus of “Der Berliner Salon”. The impressive rooms of the Kronprinzenpalais served as the exhibition platform for a total of 39 participants this season. 

Among them is the Ukrainian newcomer label PLNGNS, which demonstrates how innovative and contemporary the use of re- and upcycled materials can be. Another example is HAP Ceramics, the young brand based in Düsseldorf by Maxi Hoffmann, which showcased its artistic ceramic creations. In addition to fashion and interior designers, emerging beauty brands with exceptional concepts were once again part of the Berliner Salon. One such example is Lacueor, a young clean beauty brand that aims not only to address skin imperfections but also to harmonize body and mind sustainably, thanks to organic, active ingredients, without harming humans, animals or the environment.

The curation of this year's participants by Christiane Arp, Chairwoman of the Fashion Council Germany, in collaboration with Markus Kurz, Managing Director of Nowadays, was compiled with a focus on sustainability and the support concept of The Berliner Salon, representing a diverse mix of young aspiring designers. 

"It's incredibly enjoyable to set up the salon every season anew. "It's incredibly fun to set up the salon every season anew. When we launched the event 18 years ago, there wasn't yet the stage for the designers that fashion needs to communicate itself. We are delighted that Berlin and the BFW now offer so many stages." - Christiane Arp, Chairwoman of the Fashion Council Germany.

"Der Berliner Salon stands as a long-term platform, like no other format, for industry exchange, thereby making a statement for the fashion location Germany. We are pleased to be represented again this season with the group exhibition within the Berlin Fashion Week," says Marcus Kurz, CEO of Nowadays.

This season, Der Berliner Salon is expanded with an exhibition concept: In addition to the group exhibition at the Kronprinzenpalais, the unique designs by designer Karen Jessen will be showcased in collaboration with and at the Feuerle Collection. The exhibition, curated by Desirée Feuerle in collaboration with the Fashion Council Germany and Nowadays, will be on display on February 7 from 5:30 PM to 7:00 PM.

The Feuerle Collection
Hallesches Ufer 70 

(by invitation only)

Sustainable support for nurturing talent is made possible through the continuous backing of the Berlin Senate Department for Economics, Energy, and Public Enterprises.