Highlights of the BFW 3 / 7

© Haderlump, Andrew Thomas
© Haderlump, Andrew Thomas

DER BERLINER SALON 

While DER BERLINER SALON has been held at the Kronprinzenpalais in recent seasons, this year marks a location premiere: for the first time, the group exhibition is hosted in the impressive halls of the historic Bode-Museum. Here, visitors can discover contemporary creations in the fields of fashion, interior design, and beauty by 44 designers amidst art history and marble statues as part of Berlin Fashion Week.

This summer, the looks of the finalists of the FCG/VOGUE Fashion Fund will also be part of the group exhibition. The global initiative, announced during the last BFW in February and taking place in Germany for the first time, also aims to support young emerging talents and give them more visibility.

After nearly ten years, DER BERLINER SALON has become an absolute fixture during Berlin Fashion Week. The group exhibition not only provides a stage for emerging talents but also fosters interdisciplinary exchange between different areas of the creative industries.

DER BERLINER SALON continues to be supported by the Berlin Senate Department for Economics, Energy, and Public Enterprises.

Opening times:

Opening DER BERLINER SALON, by invitation only: 2. of July 2024, 12 until 3 pm 
Öffnungszeiten: 3. bis 7. of July 2024, 10 am until 5 pm

Address: 

Bode-Museum
Entrance above Monbijoubridge 
10178 Berlin

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RIANNA + NINA 

Known for their rather unconventional runway shows, the defile by RIANNA + NINA resembled more of a performance, with dancers flown in from Athens showcasing the couture-esque, handcrafted unique pieces of the Berlin Contemporary winners. This season, Rianna Kounou and Nina Knaudt presented their one-of-a-kind looks at the Greek Embassy—a perfectly fitting location, as the collection is once again closely connected to Kounou's homeland, its culture, and the traditions of Greece.

This season ballet dancers from Athens wore your looks. Why?

We wanted to demonstrate the versatility of the clothes, therefore Athenian ballet dancers, were part of the presentation and brought century-old dances, such as Balos, Zonaradikos, and Roditikos to life. 

The collection is called “Folklore” and is a celebration of traditions. What is the inspiration behind it?

It comes from Rianna's rich Greek heritage, which has had a big impact on her creative direction. The theme Folklore delves into mythology and nature as it imprints itself into daily life through classic objects such as tablecloths, vases, plates, and many more. The performance concept will reflect its meaning, highlighting traditional Greek garments, inspired by Greek folk wear.

Carefully sourced materials are at the heart of every look you´re creating…

Each look is again crafted from vintage fabrics which we found on our global treasure hunts. We take great care in handcrafting these pieces in our atelier, minimizing waste wherever possible. This collection features a vast array of materials, with an underlying theme of various vintage tablecloths. Although the silhouettes are classic and timeless, the details shine through, whether it is a vintage Kendima, crochet from Greece, or a special embroidery from Bulgaria adding a modern twist to the theme of Folklore. 

The collection consists of 20 unique looks. Which are your personal favorites? 

We believe all of our pieces will highlight the show! But if we have to name a few: There is a dress composed of Greek tablecloths combined with a traditional embroidery piece from the Balkan region. Another highlight is a traditional Greek Manteau made of different kitchen towels sewn together. Lastly, we have a skirt and blouse outfit that exudes Greek tradition. The blouse is made of five different dyed tablecloths, creating an airy, colorful finish. The skirt is composed of two panels: the back panel is a piece of a printed Greek tablecloth with little flowers printed on it, and the front consists of a panel embroidered with straw, continuing the theme of flowers throughout the outfit.

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Berlin Fashion Week has played a significant role in our journey, providing the perfect platform to showcase the newest RIANNA + NINA collection.” 

— Rianna Kounou and Nina Knaudt, RIANNA + NINA  

AVENIR 

In line with the collection titled "COMMUTE," the AVENIR runway show took place against the urban backdrop of Potsdamer Platz. Amidst concrete buildings and tree canopies, a sense of calm emerged – despite the audience being in the midst of a vibrant metropolis.

Alongside commuter-inspired looks ranging from bed to business, and standout accessories such as golden train tickets as earrings or bags with street map prints, it was the denim looks that stood out: crafted from recycled denim, Sophie Claussen showcased straight-cut coats and blazers as well as oversized pants in a patchwork style.

"'Commute' is inspired by commuters: each individual is unique, unfamiliar to one another, yet connected through a shared daily ritual. Whether in Berlin, London, Tokyo, or New York – they all share the experience of commuting. With our collection, we unite the anonymous faces in the crowd, the different personalities, styles, and routines that all contribute to commuter culture. We are fascinated by the daily journey we undertake together with strangers, sharing the smallest of spaces and pursuing the same goal, which is to reach our own.

All looks are designed to meet the practical and aesthetic needs of those who move through the city daily. Geometric patterns and patchworks are reminiscent of tiles and seat covers in subway stations or the horizontal stripes of business shirts, which we have reinterpreted.

All pieces are created according to the slow fashion principle: from cotton, linen, and lambswool to poly chiffon blends and denim, all materials are either sourced from remnants or have been upcycled.

One of my favorite pieces is the 'Knit Sailor's Jumper' made from upcycled denim. It contains 80 hours of handwork and was crafted from seven pairs of jeans. Each pair was cut into strips and connected into a continuous denim yarn, which was then knitted into five pieces.

We are very pleased to once again collaborate with Ena Jewellery this season, for the fourth time. By the way, all the jewelry pieces are inspired by train tickets, cycling apparel, and commuter accessories."

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All my pieces are created according to the slow fashion principle: From cotton, linen, and lambswool to poly chiffon blends and denim, all materials are either sourced from remnants or have been upcycled.”

— Sophie Claussen, AVENIR 

HADERLUMP

Berlin Contemporary winner Julius Weissenborn and Johann Ehrhardt showcased their Haderlump collection before a large audience against the backdrop of historic aircraft in the impressive Hangar 6 of Tempelhof Airport. Featuring bomber jackets made from recycled parachute fabrics, leather caps, coats with fluttering satin inserts, and uniform-like denim looks, "AERO" reflected the pioneering spirit of early 20th-century aviators.

The inspiration for "AERO" came from Amelia Earhart, the American aviation pioneer whose life was marked by determination and technological advancement. According to label co--founder Julius Weissenborn the collection pays tribute to the spirit of innovation. Elements of historic aviation, such as reinterpreted flight jackets and functional details like front pockets on trousers, define the designs. Key materials include leather, recycled bomber jackets, and parachute fabrics, chosen for their durability and historical significance. The silhouettes, featuring narrow waists and broad shoulders, create a strong presence, supported by a color palette of black, brown, white, and blue that blends traditional and contemporary styles.

Signature accessories like leather caps, silk scarves, and vintage aviator goggles add authenticity and reflect the functionality and protection of aviation clothing. The atmosphere in Hangar 6, a mix of industrial architecture and historical context, was enhanced by the music of the duo Pan-Pot, particularly the track "Rosinenbomber," which connected Berlin's cultural spirit with Haderlump's creative approach.

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Metamorphosis - dialogues about change

In collaboration with Vogue Business and eBay, Fashion Council Germany is introducing 'METAMORPHOSIS - dialogues about change' powered by eBay, a new talk series as a part of Berlin Fashion Week.

Register here for Day 2 and 3.

ANJA GOCKEL

The presentation by Anja Gockel took place at PARIS44 in Charlottenburg.

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Images are available in the official Berlin Fashion Week Media Hub.